Jewellery Glossary: Metals, Diamonds & Settings Explained | Kate & Kole
Metals & Materials
Every piece starts with metal, and the choice affects everything from colour to comfort to how a ring will wear over decades.
Alloy. Pure gold is soft, so it's blended with other metals to create an alloy that's stronger and more wearable. Mixing gold with silver, copper, or zinc doesn't just add durability, it's also what gives us different tones: yellow, white, or rose.
Carat (gold purity). In the context of gold, "carat" is about purity, not size. 24ct is pure gold, while 18ct is 75% gold blended with alloy metals. We work primarily in 9ct and 18ct gold, choosing the alloy mix that best balances beauty and everyday strength for each design.
Rhodium plating. White gold gets its bright, mirror-like finish from a thin layer of rhodium, a rare white metal plated over the top. That layer wears with time and can simply be reapplied, which is why rhodium replating is a normal part of ongoing jewellery care rather than a sign something's gone wrong.
Recycled gold. All of our gold comes from 100% recycled materials, refined to the same quality as newly mined gold but with a far gentler footprint. It's one of the simplest ways we build sustainability into every piece.
Sterling silver. Sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% alloy, usually copper. That small amount of alloy is what gives silver enough strength for everyday wear while keeping its bright white finish.
Platinum. Platinum is naturally white, dense, and durable. It's heavier than gold and never needs rhodium plating, but it's also a softer metal, so rather than staying mirror-bright, it tends to develop a soft patina over time.
Gold tones: yellow, rose, white. The three classic tones all start from the same pure gold, with different alloys creating the colour:
- Yellow gold is classic and warm, created by alloying pure gold with silver and copper.
- Rose gold is romantic and blush-toned, with copper added for its signature hue.
- White gold is cool and contemporary, created by alloying gold with white metals and then plated in rhodium for brightness.
Metal hardness. Not all metals wear the same way. Platinum is dense but relatively soft, while 14ct gold is actually harder than 18ct because it contains more alloy. Hardness shapes how a piece ages over time and which designs suit which metals best.
Stone Shapes
The shape of a stone sets the entire personality of a piece, long before you get to settings or details.
Round brilliant. The most classic and popular diamond shape, prized for its unmatched sparkle. With 58 facets engineered to maximise light and fire, it's the natural choice for timeless solitaires and pavé settings.
Oval. An elongated take on the round brilliant, the oval creates a flattering, finger-lengthening effect. It offers similar brilliance to a round brilliant but with a softer, more modern silhouette, which is exactly why it's one of our most loved shapes.
Emerald. Defined by step-cut facets and an open, mirrored table, the emerald cut is all clean lines and architectural presence. It trades maximum sparkle for clarity and refinement, understated luxury in its purest form.
Radiant. A hybrid between brilliant and step cuts, the radiant combines real sparkle with sharp, clipped corners. It's a shape built for modern settings and plenty of fire.
Cushion. Soft, romantic, and pillow-shaped with rounded corners, the cushion cut brings vintage charm and gentle brilliance to any design. A natural fit for anyone drawn to timeless elegance.
Princess. Square and brilliant, the princess cut is sharp, modern, and full of sparkle. Because of its pointed corners, it's best paired with a protective setting like a bezel or halo.
Asscher. Essentially a square emerald cut, with deeper facets and a distinctive X pattern at the centre. Asscher cuts are bold and vintage-inspired, ideal for anyone drawn to symmetry and depth.
Pear. Also known as the teardrop, the pear shape combines a rounded end with a tapering point. Elegant, feminine, and versatile, it looks especially beautiful paired with a hidden halo or delicate claws.
Marquise. Elongated with pointed ends, the marquise feels regal and distinctive. Its shape maximises visual size for its carat weight and pairs beautifully with curved bands or double claw settings.
Heart. Rare and deeply symbolic, the heart cut is often chosen for bespoke or romantic designs. It demands precise symmetry to achieve its signature look and sparkle.
Diamonds & Gemstones
Once you've settled on a shape, the next questions are about the stone itself, its weight, quality, origin, and character.
Carat (diamond weight). Unlike gold carat, diamond carat is a unit of weight, not size. One carat equals 0.2 grams. Carat affects a stone's visual impact, but it's only one of the 4Cs worth weighing up.
Cut. Cut isn't the same as shape. Where shape describes the outline (round, oval, and so on), cut describes how well a stone has been faceted and proportioned. A well-cut stone reflects light beautifully and appears more brilliant, regardless of shape.
Colour. Diamond colour is graded from D (colourless) to Z (noticeably tinted). We work with premium stones typically graded D–F, which read as icy white and luminous.
Clarity. Clarity describes any internal marks (inclusions) or surface flaws (blemishes) within a diamond, most of which are invisible to the naked eye. We favour stones graded VS (Very Slightly Included) or higher for a clean, bright finish.
Lab-grown diamonds. Chemically and optically identical to natural diamonds, lab-grown diamonds are created in controlled environments rather than mined from the earth. They're more sustainable and traceable, which is why they're our default choice for all made-to-order pieces.
Natural diamonds. Formed over billions of years beneath the Earth's surface, natural diamonds are treasured for their rarity. We work exclusively with lab-grown diamonds by default, but can source natural stones upon request.
Cubic zirconia. Cubic zirconia (CZ) is a man-made stone that looks like a diamond but is far less durable. We use CZ only in our rental proposal rings, never in our fine jewellery collections.
Birthstones. Each month carries its own birthstone, often used to symbolise loved ones in personalised jewellery, from sapphires in September to emeralds in May. They're a simple way to add meaning and story to a piece.
Fluorescence. Some diamonds glow under UV light due to a natural property called fluorescence. It's often invisible in normal light, but strong fluorescence can occasionally give a diamond a milky look, something we assess carefully during stone selection.
Inclusions / blemishes. Inclusions are internal features formed as a diamond grows; blemishes are surface marks. Both are natural characteristics that gemologists use to grade clarity, and every stone we select is carefully inspected for beauty and quality.
SCS-007 certified. This third-party certification confirms that lab-grown diamonds meet the highest sustainability standards, covering climate neutrality, ethical stewardship, and origin traceability. It's a set of values that aligns closely with our own.
Ring Settings
The setting is what holds everything together, quite literally, and it's where a lot of a ring's personality comes through.
Solitaire. A solitaire setting showcases a single centre stone, with no side stones and no distractions. It's timeless and elegant, letting the diamond speak entirely for itself.
Halo. A halo surrounds the centre stone with a circle of smaller diamonds, enhancing its sparkle and making the central stone appear larger. A brilliant choice when you want extra drama and dimension.
Hidden halo. A modern twist on the classic halo, this style tucks a ring of small diamonds beneath the centre stone, visible only from the side. It adds subtle sparkle and architectural interest, and it's one of our most requested details.
Basket setting. This style holds the centre stone in a low, secure "basket" of metal prongs that cradle the gem from underneath, letting more light into the stone while sitting slightly lower on the finger. Great for everyday wear.
Bezel setting. A sleek, modern style where metal surrounds the stone completely or partially. Bezel settings offer excellent security and a clean, contemporary finish, ideal for anyone with an active lifestyle.
Cathedral setting. Named for its graceful arches, the cathedral setting uses elevated shoulders to lift the stone above the band, adding height, elegance, and a sculptural feel that draws the eye straight to the centrepiece.
Tension setting. In this minimalist style, the stone appears suspended between the two ends of the band, held in place purely by pressure. It's striking and modern, but best suited to harder stones and more occasional wear.
Claw / prong setting. Prongs, or "claws", grip the stone at key points, typically four or six, allowing maximum light to reach the diamond. It's the most classic and popular setting style for engagement rings, for good reason.
Pavé setting. From the French word for "paved", pavé features tiny diamonds set closely together, often along the band, creating a glittering surface of light. Our pavé rings are handset with precision for both durability and beauty.
Channel setting. Small diamonds nestle in a channel between two strips of metal, no prongs, just clean lines and seamless sparkle. It's especially popular in wedding bands and stacking rings.
Flush setting. Here, the stone is set directly into the band so its top sits flush with the metal surface. Understated and secure, it's a favourite for everyday wear and for men's or gender-neutral designs.
Double band / split shank. This design has the band splitting into two as it approaches the centre stone, adding width, drama, or architectural detail. It's a signature feature in some of our more sculptural designs.
Toi et moi. French for "you and me", this romantic setting features two stones side by side, often representing two souls or a shared journey. A modern heirloom with real symbolic weight.
Design Features
Beyond the stone and setting, it's the smaller design choices that make a piece feel considered, and often, personal.
Gallery (ring). The gallery is the space beneath the centre stone, mostly hidden from a top-down view. It's where our jewellers add thoughtful details like a hidden halo, architectural shapes, or hand-drawn hearts, adding meaning and visual intrigue to the ring's profile.
Shoulders. The shoulders are the sides of the band leading up to the centre stone. They can taper, split, carry pavé diamonds, or stay minimal, and we design each pair to balance structure and softness as the perfect frame for your chosen stone.
Band width / thickness. Width refers to how wide the ring sits across your finger; thickness refers to how deep the metal is from top to bottom. Together, these proportions affect comfort and visual weight, so we often fine-tune them for each design to create the right balance and longevity.
Knife edge. A knife edge band features a subtle ridge running along the centre, creating a sculptural profile. It adds dimension without adding bulk, perfect for stacking or as a modern twist on a classic style.
Tapered band. Tapering means the band narrows as it approaches the stone, creating a more delicate, refined look and allowing the centre stone to visually "float" with extra prominence.
Stone orientation (north/south vs east/west).
- North/South: the stone is set traditionally, pointing along the finger.
- East/West: the stone is rotated to sit horizontally, a contemporary choice that creates a bolder, more unique silhouette.
Milgrain. A decorative technique where tiny metal beads are added along the edge of a design, milgrain brings a vintage feel and tactile texture. We use it sparingly, for added romance rather than as a default.
Hand-drawn details. A Kate & Kole signature. Some of our rings feature engraved motifs, like hearts or initials, sketched by hand and then laser engraved by our jewellers, a hidden message that makes a piece truly yours.
Personalisation. From birthstones to initials, we offer a range of ways to turn a piece into a keepsake, whether that's a hidden engraving or a stone chosen for every child. Your story is always welcome here.
Engraving. Engraving is the art of inscribing letters, numbers, or motifs onto a jewellery surface. We offer both hand-drawn and classic fonts, popular for initials, dates, or private messages hidden inside a band.
Charm. A charm is a small decorative element, fixed or sliding, often added to necklaces or bracelets. Ours are usually symbolic, initials, hearts, birthstones, and can grow alongside your story over time.
Component. A component is any individual element used to build a piece, such as the band, basket, or charm. Understanding components helps us repair, resize, or evolve a piece with precision down the track.
Production & Jewellery Terms
Curious how a piece actually comes to life? Here's what happens behind the scenes.
CAD (computer-aided design). CAD is the digital design process we use to bring jewellery to life before it's ever made. Every bespoke and made-to-order piece starts here, mapped out in exact detail so we can share renders, make edits, and confirm the perfect fit before anything is cast.
Casting. Casting transforms a digital design into a physical piece. Once the CAD is approved, it's 3D printed in wax, cast in your chosen metal, and finished by hand in our studio.
Setting (stone setting). Setting refers to how a diamond or gemstone is secured into the metal. Our jewellers hand-set each stone using techniques ranging from prong to flush, chosen to ensure longevity, symmetry, and beauty.
Sizing / resizing. Sizing is finding the correct finger size for a ring; resizing is adjusting it after it's made. Some designs can be resized and others can't, full eternity bands, for example, which is why we guide you carefully through sizing upfront.
Finishing. Finishing covers the final steps in creating a piece: polishing, engraving, plating, and quality checks. It's where our jewellers refine every surface and detail before a piece is packaged and sent home.
Polishing. Polishing smooths and brightens the metal surface for a high shine or satin finish. It's part of every initial order and can be redone later in a piece's life to refresh its appearance.
Laser welding. A high-precision technique used to join or repair metal components, laser welding lets our jewellers work on fine details, like resizing delicate rings or fixing chains, without affecting surrounding stones or engraving.
Findings (jump rings, clasps, etc.). Findings are the small functional pieces, clasps, jump rings, hooks, that hold jewellery together. They're often hidden, but essential to how a piece moves and wears.
Made to order. Most Kate & Kole pieces are made to order, created especially for you once your order is placed. This approach reduces waste, allows for personalisation, and ensures every piece is crafted with intention.
Ready to wear. Ready to Wear pieces are in stock and ready to ship. They're our most-loved styles and signature designs, kept on hand for gifting, proposing, or spontaneous moments of joy.
Bespoke. Bespoke means custom-designed just for you, whether that's reimagining a family heirloom, incorporating your own stone, or designing something entirely from scratch. Our bespoke service is collaborative, personal, and one-of-a-kind.
Care, Warranty & Repairs
Fine jewellery is made to be worn for a lifetime, and a little routine care goes a long way.
Rhodium replating. White gold pieces are coated in rhodium for that bright, white finish, and over time this layer wears away. We recommend replating every 12–18 months as part of routine care, especially for engagement and wedding rings.
Resizing policy. Many of our rings can be resized, depending on the design; some, like full eternity bands or certain delicate styles, can't. We guide you on sizing before production, and if a resize is needed later, we'll assess what's possible and walk you through the options.
Wear & tear. Jewellery is made to be worn, and daily life inevitably leaves its mark. Scratches, dents, and subtle shape shifts are simply part of a piece's story. Regular care and annual check-ups help minimise wear and extend its life.
Lifetime warranty. We offer a lifetime warranty on all Kate & Kole pieces, covering workmanship and manufacturing faults. It doesn't cover damage from wear and tear or misuse, but we'll always work with you to repair or remake your piece wherever possible.
Chain repair. Chains are delicate by nature, especially fine ones, and a sudden tug or snag can cause them to break. We can usually repair or replace a chain depending on the type and extent of damage, and regular checks can help prevent bigger issues down the line.
Refinishing. If a piece is looking dull or scratched, a professional refinish can restore its shine. This can include polishing, cleaning, and sometimes reapplying rhodium or restoring detail like milgrain.
Annual maintenance. We recommend checking in with us annually for a clean and check, especially for engagement rings or pieces with fine settings. We'll review your claws, clean the piece professionally, and flag any repairs before issues arise.